Choosing The Best Audio Amplifier For Your House June 13, 2010

Looking at modern audio amplifier devices, one cannot help but be overwhelmed by the number of technologies and models. I will explain some fundamental amplifier terminology and assist you choose the right type regardless of what your exact use may be.

An audio amplifier will connect your audio source with your loudspeakers by converting the fairly weak source signal into a powerful adequate signal to drive your loudspeakers.

Some audio sources such as surround-sound receivers already are available with a built-in audio amplifier. Using a separate amplifier, though, offers some advantages. One advantage is having more versatility and being able to select an amplifier that is best suited to drive a certain speaker. There are some mini amplifier types available. These types are small enough to conceal practically anywhere.

Most people will take a look at amplifier wattage first when choosing an amplifier. Output wattage is the amount of power the amplifier is capable to deliver to the speakers. Driving low-sensitivity loudspeakers (sensitivity is shown in dB/W) requires fairly high wattage. Moreover, driving outdoor speakers or speakers in a large room will require higher amplifier power. You shouldn’t use an amplifier with considerably higher output power than your speakers can manage. Overdriving your speakers can do irreparable damage to your speakers.

But don’t be overly concerned about wattage. An amp providing 20 to 50 Watts will give you more than plenty of power to properly drive a speaker in any but the largest room.

Amplifier output power is given in Watts rms (continuous) and Watts peak. The rms or continuous value tells you how much power the amplifier can supply constantly while the peak power figure tells the maximum wattage that the amplifier can provide for short periods of time. You ought to select an amplifier that has enough rms power, although 10 to 30 Watts ought to be enough for most applications but has sufficient headroom for peaks that happen in music signals.

Audio quality is just as significant as having enough audio power and thus you ought to also take a look at figures such as total harmonic distortion or THD. No amplifier is completely perfect and the amplified signal will include some error components which will distort the signal to some level. THD is either expressed in percent or dB. The level of distortion varies between amplifier types. A smaller distortion means higher audio quality. Audiophile amplifiers will have distortion numbers of usually less than 0.05%. Consumer-grade amplifiers will have distortion figures of up to 10%.

Signal-to-noise ratio is another amplifier characteristic. This number describes the amount of noise which the amplified will add to the audio. The figure is expressed in dB. Consumer-grade amps will have a signal-to-noise ratio (SNR) of at least 80 dB. Higher-end amps will have an SNR of 100 dB or more. Audiophile amps will have an SNR of close to 120 dB.

The majority of today’s amplifiers are based on a technology known as Class-D which provides higher energy efficiency than amplifiers based an Class-A or Class-AB technologies. High efficiency means that little power is wasted as heat which can make the amplifier quite small. Class-A and Class-AB amplifiers require a reasonable amount of heat sinking and for that reason are generally fairly large and heavy. In contrast, amplifiers based on the Class-D technology are small and lightweight. Some of today’s smallest mini amplifiers are no bigger than a deck of cards. Lots of Class-D amplifiers, however, have higher distortion and a lower signal-to-noise ratio than Class-A or Class-AB amplifiers. Be certain to look closely at these numbers when choosing a Class-D type amplifier.

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